# Sewing your own clothes? (Sasha? Anyone?)



## knottyknicky (Apr 11, 2010)

Hey everyone...

I know some of you around here are pretty crafty and sassy, and was wondering if maybe you could point me in the direction of some good sites/books/resources that would help me start creating my own clothing. I studied fashion design (briefly) when I was 18, but I don't remember anything! Its been about that long since I've sewn, but I'm looking to get back into it, getting so frustrated with the clothes available. The patterns I've found are so oversized and frumpy! BurdaStyle has some great stuff but only NINE patterns in plus sizes, and I don't like half of them. I'm not looking for anything overly complex, but maybe some information on grading normal-size patterns up to a plus size, etc. I saw Vogue Patterns has some designer (gasp!) patterns that go to a size 22ish, but I know pattern sizes are different than real sizes. I'm about a size 24 (around a 22 on top and a 26 on bottom, usually) and am wondering if I can get away with grading a size 22 pattern to fit me. I may have to break down and buy/make a dress form, which wouldn't be the end of the world, but, yeah. 

Anyone? Anything? Just to clarify, I'm looking for stuff that is fun, modern, young-ish. I've got a quirky sense of style and don't want giant mumus, oversized tshirts, and elastic pants.


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## dreamer72fem (Apr 11, 2010)

I am not a sewing person, but my mom did work at Simplicity Pattern Company for YEARS and she always was fighting to get larger size patterns and they do have many plus size patterns now. So I would do a search for them and see what they have to offer. I know that WalMart use to carry their patterns. Hope that is some help.
Stacey


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## LillyBBBW (Apr 11, 2010)

I'm probably going to tell you remedial stuff you already know. You have to know your own body in a way. Get a good tape measure and have yourself measured by a second party. Not just the hips waist, chest and arm circumference but also the distance between your hip and your waist, your bust and your waist, you neck and your bust, your inseam - anything that can be measured, measure it. I would highly recommend getting a tape measure from a quilting supply store because it's going to go up to 120 inches rather than the standard 60 that the regular ones do. 

When you purchase a pattern the measurements are usually listed on the package telling you what size the pattern will accomodate. I usualy buy the largest size in any pattern and start from there. In general I find that patterns will accomodate me everywhere but in the hips. My hips are exceptionally large even though I do not qualify as a pear. I usually have to do some improvising with patterns but surprisingly patterns will sometimes underestimate the fit. For a sewing class I bought a pattern for some unisex pajama pants and even in the largest size they were supposed to be too small according to the packaging. I made them exactly as described and they fit me like a roomy glove. Patterns are iffy at times.

A ruler is going to be your best friend when altering a pattern. When you open the pattern there are usually 3 to 4 choices in size outlined on it in which to cut it out. These size markings are usually equal distance apart. You can usually increase the size by aligning a ruler along the graduating path that the sizing difference takes place, and then mark a new place in the size area according to the distance between the other markings and how much larger you want to make the garment. 

Here's where it gets complicated though. In addition to being bigger sizewize, the depth of a pattern will need to be enlarged also. The space relegated horizontally for the bust area is going to be deeper than on a skinny pattern. You may have to elongate the pattern as well as enlarging the pattern because of the bust and belly area. That means adding an inch or two to elongate the pattern in those areas as well as enlarging the pattern. This is why you should know the depth of your own bust area, torso area, etc.

There's so much cutting and altering that it is wise to make an initial garment using a comparable kind of fabric just to test it out. This will eliminate the possible destruction you can do to an exceptional fabric that could potentially be ruined because you made a costly mistake. You can whip up this starter garment in an inexpensive fabric, try it on and put in alterations accordingly. If the front rides up you can make the front longer so it doesn't look uneven on you, etc. Once you get it the way you want it you can use the pieces of this garment almost like a pattern in itself. Making these starter garments can be costly but if you really want to know how to do this I see no way around having to practice on a fugly fabric first. After a while you will become accustomed to the way to alter patterns to fit you which will lessen the need for this but in the beginning you should expect to pay more on extra fabric. 

I know people who can create their own patterns from nothing. All they have to do is see a garment or even conjure one, study it and then go home and draw out a disign on tissue paper according to their measurements. With practice in making clothes for yourself this becomes easy. I haven't gotten to that point yet but I can totally see it happening. People somehow managed to wear clothes long before Burda and McCalls ever existed. There are general rules of thumb in altering patterns to fit bigger bodies but the variance in dimensions among us make it impossible to assume. General guides are always helpful but you really can only learn by doing and knowing your own body.


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## HappyFatChick (Apr 11, 2010)

What a great thread. I have some of my clothes custom made. I know exactly what I like. It's easy to find black dress pants and some loose or A-line tops, but I LOVE black tops with color around the face. I have not seen anything out there that I like. You have inspired me to have my sewing chick whip something up. Thanks.


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## Paul (Apr 11, 2010)

knottyknicky said:


> Hey everyone...
> 
> I know some of you around here are pretty crafty and sassy, and was wondering if maybe you could point me in the direction of some good sites/books/resources that would help me start creating my own clothing. I studied fashion design (briefly) when I was 18, but I don't remember anything! Its been about that long since I've sewn, but I'm looking to get back into it, getting so frustrated with the clothes available. The patterns I've found are so oversized and frumpy! BurdaStyle has some great stuff but only NINE patterns in plus sizes, and I don't like half of them. I'm not looking for anything overly complex, but maybe some information on grading normal-size patterns up to a plus size, etc. I saw Vogue Patterns has some designer (gasp!) patterns that go to a size 22ish, but I know pattern sizes are different than real sizes. I'm about a size 24 (around a 22 on top and a 26 on bottom, usually) and am wondering if I can get away with grading a size 22 pattern to fit me. I may have to break down and buy/make a dress form, which wouldn't be the end of the world, but, yeah.
> 
> Anyone? Anything? Just to clarify, I'm looking for stuff that is fun, modern, young-ish. I've got a quirky sense of style and don't want giant mumus, oversized tshirts, and elastic pants.



This site may be more advanced tham what you may be searching for a a beginner, but other more advanced seamstresses my find it useful if you don't.

http://books.google.com/books?id=V5...&resnum=7&ved=0CBQQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=false


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## Tracyarts (Apr 12, 2010)

I like to use existing clothes for patterns whenever I can, it's a really easy way to do it (IMHO). 

When a garment I really like wears out or if I stain or tear it, I carefully pick it apart with a seam ripper and use it for a pattern so I can replicate it over and over. Also, I have bought less expensive garments either on the sale rack, from a discount store, or off Ebay that I wouldn't ever wear because of the color or fabric and took them apart to use as patterns. And in a couple cases I have spent big bucks on something that was absolutely perfect for me, and veeeeery carefully picked it apart to make a pattern and then put it back together. 

But most of the clothes I sew are from very simple patterns. I have a gored skirt, a princess seamed top, a straight top, and a straight skirt pattern that I used commercial patterns to start with and then fitted and re-fitted them to me and eventually wound up with a master pattern I cut from canvas. I can use those basic shapes to do lots of different things with simple changes and additions. 

Commercial patterns don't so much work for me because of my height. It's not just the length but the overall proportion that is a bit off, so I really don't use them anyway. Or if so, only as a starting point. 

Tracy


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## keeothie (Apr 12, 2010)

I've been sewing since middle school, and I can say that my fitting really improved with the help of a dress form. Maybe it's that disconnect (for me at least) between cutting and measuring and actually fitting something to my body that was the issue....it may not be that way for you.

I got my dress form on eBay, and the last time I checked they've got adjustable ones that run north of a size 26. I think it was around $100 with shipping? I know it might be a pricey investment now, but if you're going to be making the bulk of your own clothing, it should pay for itself in the long run.


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## fatbottomedgrrl (Apr 13, 2010)

If you're just sizing a pattern up from a 22 to a 24/26 I'd just trace the pattern a couple inches bigger to start. I usually just pin the most complicated side (like the inseam for a pair of pants), cut it and slide the entire pattern piece an inch or two over. If you tend to wear your clothes close fitting and/or use stretch fabrics, this is usually enough to get you a pretty accurate garment. 

I also agree with what Tracyarts said about buying clothes and carefully ripping them apart. I did this with an old ripped pair of denim lites recently and got fantastic results. Just be sure to use a fabric with similar stretch or weight for best results.

Also, when you're looking at pattern jackets in the store, try not to focus too hard on the manufacturer's photos and fabric choices. Instead, turn the pattern over and look at the line drawings on the back. I have a million patterns that look either frumpy or dated in the photo, but have turned out to be very versatile.

Last thing: If you just want a resource that you can flip through for tips and tricks, try Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina. Again, her fabric choices are pretty wacky, but the book shows you how to expand patterns very well. She also has a great bit on trouble shooting common problems on you finished garment, like creases in the crotch of your pants or gaping waistbands.


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## ekmanifest (Apr 13, 2010)

Would love to hear more about having clothes custom made . . . have been thinking about this for a while (since SocialBFly is going to move away before she teaches me to sew) . . . how do you find someone who will do this? I just often find styles that I really like and then can't find any more like them.


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## BigCutieSasha (Apr 13, 2010)

I agree with a lot of the other posts on here. If you want to size up to a 24/26 I would just lay the pattern out and buy some big sheets of tracing paper (this helps so you keep the original in good shape), lay it on the pattern, put some paper weights on it and trace the biggest size on the pattern. Measure the distance between all the sizes on the pattern that are already there and draw your new lines size accordingly. So if on the original it was 1/2 an inch difference from a size 18 to 20 to 22, just add 1/2 an inch to a 24 and so on (and if they are different as sizes go up, just figure out the increase in size and continue it). I wouldn't just add a few inches everywhere or else you will wind up with some wonky measurements. Because sometimes some parts on the pattern will only be different in cm. 

Also if you want a plus size dress form that doesn't break the bank too much there is a store called Atlas Levy and they have a plus size dress form for only $169.95. Might sound like a lot but my god these things can be so spendy. I think I am going to get one from them and then just take the homemade duct tape DF I made, stuff it a bit with batting and place it over the one I buy. If that makes any sense. lol 

I hope this helps and good luck with your sewing! I want pics when you make sometime!


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## CrankySpice (Apr 13, 2010)

One other idea is to reconstruct what you already have/what you can buy cheaply. When I sew, I tend to be an eye-baller or reconstructionist. I think the last time I sewed with a pattern was in 1995. 

I'll often buy a t-shirt that is super cute but waaaaaaaaaaaaay too small for me and cut and reassemble parts of it with another shirt to make a top that fits me. You can also make simple alterations to a t-shirt that is way too large to give it cute sleeves and make it more form fitting.

Check out the "clothing for curvaceous craftsters" on craftster.org - there are some really creative people there! You can also google "t-shirt reconstruction" for some simple ideas.

And thank you for reminding me, I have a dress I've been meaning to convert to a top for some time now, maybe I'll get to that this week!


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## Sandie S-R (Apr 13, 2010)

ekmanifest said:


> Would love to hear more about having clothes custom made . . . have been thinking about this for a while (since SocialBFly is going to move away before she teaches me to sew) . . . how do you find someone who will do this? I just often find styles that I really like and then can't find any more like them.



If you're willing to come down to San Diego - I'd be happy to teach you to sew. Drop me a note if you want to.


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## Aust99 (Dec 26, 2010)

I got a sewing machine for Christmas and can't wait to get into it again... I searched the forums for plus size sewing patterns and this thread was the best match... does anyone have anything they are especially proud of that they want to show off to inspire others? As soon as I've made something I'll post it in here... Any tips?


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## Gingembre (Dec 27, 2010)

I am in awe of this thread. I have tried sewing in the past but I just don't have the patience or ability. I struggle to sew a button on securely or hem a pair of trousers! I can't wait to see your creations.


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## Juice (Dec 27, 2010)

Gingembre said:


> I am in awe of this thread. I have tried sewing in the past but I just don't have the patience or ability. I struggle to sew a button on securely or hem a pair of trousers! I can't wait to see your creations.



I am exactly the same :blush: I've tried to alter clothes (not even sew from scratch) but I am a disaster. However I have a lot of creative ideas and I know my body quite well so a couple of months ago I decided to visit a seamstress. We spent about half an hour talking about my ideas and what is doable and what is impossible to make. I feel very happy I've found her as clothing was (and is in a way) a major issue for me. Plus size shops do not carry past a size 28-30 and the few US stores I've found that cater for 36sizers like me are not really an option as you have to pay enormous custom fees.
So far I had a long blue dress made for me with empire waist and long floaty sleeves, a couple of long skirts (one in black and one in camel) and a long black coat. My next mission is to have a few long blouses / tunics made for work. I know I've said I accepted my size and it's true but I want to look decent and professional-like at work. I feel bad wearing leggings and short sleeved tshirts all the time, they just accentuate my fat bits (fat legs, arms and apron).


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## CarlaSixx (Dec 27, 2010)

I had made a hoodie with an elf-like hood on it all by hand, two layers. No pattern. Just drew my measurements on paper and put it all together. I've worn a lot of hoodies and just went by memory. It was really fun... a summery kind of hoodie as it was terry cloth and light cotton with a cute musical print on it. 

I ended up donating it to a local charity because I outgrew it, but it was one of the few things I sewed by hand that I can actually say I'm proud of creating and that I truly did finish, lol.

A website that helped me get into sewing is:

http://threadbanger.com

They used to have a duo on there that were awesome, named Rob and Corinne. Now it's the girl known as "secretlifeofabionerd" on YouTube.

They have a forum with some AWESOME ideas and help. Always good to hit up that place, since everything on there is about hand crafting things.


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## sunnie1653 (Dec 28, 2010)

I've just recently started sewing myself (self-taught, I'm so not perfect...) but the next thing I am going to try to do is make myself a dress. This should prove pretty interesting. LOL!!


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## Paul (Dec 28, 2010)

sunnie1653 said:


> I've just recently started sewing myself (self-taught, I'm so not perfect...) but the next thing I am going to try to do is make myself a dress. This should prove pretty interesting. LOL!!



I'm self taught as well Sunnie. I sew for my wife. One tip I have learned is to over-edge all the edges of the fabric after cutting them out from the pattern so that the so that the edges of the fabric seam aloowances will not fray when washed. There are two ways to overedge the seams. Before sewing the pattern pieces together either finish the edges of the fabric using a serger or zigzag stitch with a sewing machine, letting one stitch pierce the fabric and the other gto beyond the fabric edge, thus finishing the edge of the fabric preventing fraying.

Please post pictures when you finish your dress. You'll do a good job I'm sure.


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## penguin (Dec 28, 2010)

I stumbled across this and now I want to give it a go!


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## Filly (Jan 29, 2011)

I would really like to learn how to sew properly. I've made a few things, but they never made it into my regular wardrobe. 

I've been looking at taking some classes, but all the ones I've come across require you to bring your own machine. I've borrowed my mum's machine before, but am reluctant to spend the money on a machine myself as I might not get the use out of it.

I've been looking on etsy.com and some sellers claim to make custom-made clothing. Had anyone purchased from here before? I know that getting a seamstress to make something to your own measurements can sometimes be VERY expensive


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## Tracyarts (Feb 4, 2011)

I bought a piece of medium weight black cotton jersey fabric yesterday to make a mid-thigh length princess seam tunic top with long sleeves and a rounded v-neck. 

I want something simple and casual to wear with jeans, leggings, or even the right skirt. But not a boxy tee, something that has some shape to it. That way I can wear it to show of an interesting necklace or scarf if I want, or just as a basic stand-alone. 

I'll probably work on it this weekend, and hopefully it'll turn out the way I want it to. Of the past five tops I have sewn, two turned out really well, two so-so, and one was a total fail. LOL!

Tracy


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## LillyBBBW (Mar 31, 2011)

*bump*

Do you folks know about ThreadBanger? It's a YouTube spot that gives wonderful simple directions on how to make your own funky designs. You would need to know how to use a sewing machine, otherwise the instructions are step by step with wonderful demonstrations. If you're still interested in making your own stuff check them out. This one on how to make a summer dress is my particular fave right now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsSZTHyCLyU


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## penguin (Mar 31, 2011)

Oh, that's an interesting site!

I came across this site which shows you how to easily make your own knickers, which I thought you ladies would like


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## BigCutieSasha (Apr 3, 2011)

penguin said:


> Oh, that's an interesting site!
> 
> I came across this site which shows you how to easily make your own knickers, which I thought you ladies would like



I LOVE THIS! Thanks so much hun! I've been wanting to make my own panties for a while now but just didnt find a simple, to the point tutorial with using old ones. Love it. Thanks!


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## penguin (Apr 3, 2011)

BigCutieSasha said:


> I LOVE THIS! Thanks so much hun! I've been wanting to make my own panties for a while now but just didnt find a simple, to the point tutorial with using old ones. Love it. Thanks!



And you're guaranteed a good fit, since you're basing it on your favourite cut  I'm going to give this a go sometime soon


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## verucassault (Apr 3, 2011)

have you tried the burdastyle website. they actually sell burda style plus magazine here in germany. really great patterns but in german
on the us site you can search for plus and download some of the patterns all you need is a printer
i am currently working on Kristen Plus #6046. I will do a variation of it because I am not that big a fan of the neck. but my dress will be a light weight denim with a floral contrasting fabric. the directions are also pretty good


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## BigCutieSasha (Apr 4, 2011)

verucassault said:


> have you tried the burdastyle website. they actually sell burda style plus magazine here in germany. really great patterns but in german
> on the us site you can search for plus and download some of the patterns all you need is a printer
> i am currently working on Kristen Plus #6046. I will do a variation of it because I am not that big a fan of the neck. but my dress will be a light weight denim with a floral contrasting fabric. the directions are also pretty good



I love that place. I check it for their free patterns as often as I can. I've gotten a pattern for a bag, skirt and a few other things there. You will have to post what you made when you're done!


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## LillyBBBW (Apr 11, 2011)

So... 

I'm thinking about taking the summer off from my usual rituals and dedicating my time to perfecting my sewing and pattern making technique. I've been putting it off and putting it off for years because I didn't have time for it. Also it gets to be kind of expensive. I have to have test fabric and materials and I anticipate lots of mistakes. My sewing machine is kind of old and it fell down a flight of stairs some time ago. I patched it back together and it's working for now but with a heavy heart I may have to get a new machine afterall. I love this machine and it is no longer being made by Singer. With all this money being spent I won't be able to take my annual summer vacation this year either. BIG doings.

I'm kind of excited about all this but it does come at a hefty price. I'm giving up some summer gigs that have been a veritable sure thing every year. I fear that if I drop out of the loop I may not be able to get back in. I'm kinda old in this industry and these young wipper snappers now... very easy to become irrelevant. If I can learn how to make stellar clothes though it would be worth it. If my efforts lead nowhere it would be a waste. Anybody have any suggestions where to start? Books, NYC Fabric stores, a good mix for a mojito? 

Anybody want to come over? There'll be fajitas invlolved......??


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## sscurves (Apr 17, 2011)

You might check out patterns by Butterick in their Plus Size section. Their patterns by Connie Crawford are great for supersize. I think her hip size goes up to like 72" or 75"? You can catch them on sale at Hancocks alot of times for $0.99! Well worth a dollar! Some of her patterns I haven't even had to allow on...and I have 78" hips. Her pattern instructions also tell you how to alter her patterns to fix larger/smaller upper arms, belly, etc.


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## LillyBBBW (Apr 18, 2011)

sscurves said:


> You might check out patterns by Butterick in their Plus Size section. Their patterns by Connie Crawford are great for supersize. I think her hip size goes up to like 72" or 75"? You can catch them on sale at Hancocks alot of times for $0.99! Well worth a dollar! Some of her patterns I haven't even had to allow on...and I have 78" hips. Her pattern instructions also tell you how to alter her patterns to fix larger/smaller upper arms, belly, etc.



Thanks so much! I've ordered a couple of Connie's patterns from her website but I will look into the Butterick patterns as well. I bought a pattern last year for a class that according to measurments was going to be too small for me. After completing the garment I found that it fit like a glove. Thanks so much for the tip, I will definitely be on the lookout.


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## olwen (Aug 21, 2011)

Bumping this thread. It's been really helpful. It should be a sticky!!!!


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## bettylulu (Aug 21, 2011)

I taught myself to sew in the spring, because I hated everything in the stores. There are tons of draft your own skirt pattern sites online, but I used this book, Sew What! Skirts 16 Simple Styles You Can Make with Fabulous Fabrics. I love it! You draft your own patterns to your own measurements. I used the back of old wrapping paper. It's worth the $11 just for the A-line and wrap skirt patterns alone, IMO. From those two patterns I made around 8-10 skirts for the summer. They are so completely easy. If you have a sewing machine, you can make these skirts. 

Two of my tips:

-For the A line skirt with a drawstring waist, add some elastic to the waistline to give it a nice hang and a little stability. 

-For the wrap skirt they say you can add an optional button hole above the left seam to thread the wrap through. For us bigger girls, this is NOT an option, it's a must. I also added a button hole on either side of the *right* seam to thread the other side of the wrap through. This gives the skirt a great continuous line, a fantastic drape, and extra security that you aren't going to lose your skirt and show your panties to the world.

This site also has some great free patterns for clothes, bags, home goods, kids clothes, etc.


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## penguin (Aug 21, 2011)

Thanks for those links! I think I'll have to get that book.


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## olwen (Aug 21, 2011)

The links are cool. I will be making the simple maxi dress for the fall.


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## penguin (Aug 22, 2011)

I know have too many craft and sewing blog tabs open. I just need to get my hands on some fabric and I'll give making my own clothes a go. WANT.


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## khrestel (Oct 29, 2011)

I haven't touched ready patterns since I took a course for pattern making which started bu making a "basic pattern" for trousers, skirt, top and strechy top. After drawing them with standard directions and own measurements we sew them together, pinned and made necessary alterations to the patterns. Now they can be used as a base to every possible garment. I just have to alter the bits I want to change like shape of neckline, the place of breast pleat, length of hem etc. Of course that requires some skill as well but it's quite easy after few tries. 

If you're really thinking of getting into sewing, some seamstresses draw those basic pattern for you after your own measurements for a cost that might sound bad first but is reasonable if you're using them often and are quite stable in size.

Just make sure they also do the fitting and not just draw because standard directions use some measurements that are computational and those parts tend to cause problems in bigger sizes.


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## SuzyQutsy (Dec 4, 2011)

threadbanger has a few tutorials on how to make your own form, I have wanted to try that for a long time.


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## penguin (Feb 27, 2013)

I just got my sewing machine to work again (turns out if you have the needle in the wrong way, it won't pick up the bobbin thread. I R SMRT) and now I want to sew sew sew. I need to practice a bit before I make anything for real, as it's been a while since I've done it, but I'm all keen to get going again.


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## HottiMegan (Feb 27, 2013)

Good luck Penguin. I want to make some summer/spring dresses and tops. I'm waiting for everyone to be better and over all the illnesses going through the house. (Makes for a mom that is in the car a lot!) I have a HUGE stash of fabric to get me started. I even have a few patterns i've been wanting to try.. i just have to get to doing it!


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## penguin (Feb 28, 2013)

HottiMegan said:


> Good luck Penguin. I want to make some summer/spring dresses and tops. I'm waiting for everyone to be better and over all the illnesses going through the house. (Makes for a mom that is in the car a lot!) I have a HUGE stash of fabric to get me started. I even have a few patterns i've been wanting to try.. i just have to get to doing it!



I don't have a lot of fabric here, and the pieces I have are too small to make something for me. So I made a few things for my daughter, and man, am I out of practice. The first skirt was horrible! The hem was atrocious, so I just scrapped it. The second one was pretty good, though. I made a really cute dress next, but brilliantly forgot to include "wearable" room, so it was a bit tight. When I can get some nice contrasting fabric, I'll run some of that up the sides so she can wear it. I made a second dress, which I haven't tried on her yet, but it looks much better than the first. I just need to finish the straps and waist sash. I really want to get some fabric for me, now!


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