# sewing question: Do you know how to smock?



## HottiMegan (May 9, 2007)

Some of my favorite pieces of clothing are smocked and would love to make some smocked stuff this summer. Does anyone know how to do it? My sewing machine instruction manual has some confusing instructions. I have a 2 foot tall stack of fabric waiting on me to make some stuff with it and need to get sewing for my vacation in a month  I was thinking a smocked empire waist sun dress would be fun/cute  So any one have some instructions and resources on supplies to do it?


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## BeaBea (May 9, 2007)

Hi Megan,

I love smocking 

I always do it by hand... Take the peice you want to smock and pleat the piece you're working along the top edge. Make them regular and even. Sew through this with something really -really- strong (if it comes undone it's a nightmare!) Do the same along the bottom edge making sure you have your pleats straight - then just play  Embroider over the top in any stitch you like and you can play around with different threadds, colours and textures too. It gets addictive really quickly!

You can get things pleated for you, use a proper pleater or even some iron on tape to help with the pleating but I never found it that hard to do by eye. If you want an easy start pick a fabric with a stripe, spot, check or some other regular pattern.

You might find it easiest to start with a practice panel as if you go wrong it's less annoying than spoiling a piece of clothing. Other easy first projects are dolls clothes or little girls dresses but I know you're an accomplished seamstress so they're probably too easy for you 

I'll try to dig out some pictures of pieces I've done.

Tracey xx


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## SamanthaNY (May 9, 2007)

This page includes some good links, including how-to's with pics.


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## elle camino (May 9, 2007)

wait wait...am i getting my terms confused here, or is smocking the same as gathering? 
edit: just googled. it is. 
when i was in school, my teacher taught us the quickie method - 
run a large basting stitch across the area you want gathered, take the garment out, turn it over, hold the top thread with your thumb and pull the bobbin thread tight.
ta da! gathered.


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## SamanthaNY (May 9, 2007)

I think there's also a difference between smocking that's fixed (i.e., not created with elastic thread) 







and smocking that's stretchy, as in the smock tops from Big On Batik, or the holy clothing dresses 






Are they both considered smocking? Or is one "English" smocking (the fixed and more delicate, decorative type), and the other just... I dunno, regular fit-the-fatty smocking?

As if we didn't have enough cosmic questions to ponder! :doh:


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## BeaBea (May 9, 2007)

Lol - cant speak for you folks but over here they're both just called smocking. I assumed Megan was talking about the fixed embroidered kind but only because thats the kind I like doing (and because jumping to conclusions is the only exercise I'm good at! )

The elasticated kind can be done on a machine. I've never attempted it on a domestic although I have done it on one of our industrial machines. I cant draw a comparison though because you could basically put roofing felt through an industrial machine and it would still manage to sew it straight and clean. Domestics are a bit more delicate and it will depend on your machine. Do you have a manual or can you find one online?

Tracey xx


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## lypeaches (May 9, 2007)

Hi Megan,

One way to do it is to get some covered elastic, as small as you can get it, lay it out on a line on your fabric, and then do a zig zag stitch over top of it with your sewing machine. You're not stitching through the elastic at all....just sort of trapping it there with your zig zag stitch. You can experiment with different threads and zig zag widths, etc. It's time consuming, but it does work. You then have to make sure that you stitch the ends securely so the elastic can't slide out. 

Janelle

PS this is for the stretchy type of smocking, which is what I think you're referring to.


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## elle camino (May 9, 2007)

ohhh, derp.
sorry guys, i thought we were talking about someting WAY more simple. oops.


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## HottiMegan (May 9, 2007)

Thanks for the info, i was talking about the kind with elastic. I sat in on a class to do the delicate embroidery kind when i worked at a quilt shop years ago and hope to have a little girl some day to make some smocked dresses but what i was referring to was the elastic kind. I just couldnt figure it out on the clothes that i own and have always loved the look.


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## Renaissance Woman (May 10, 2007)

BeaBea, I thought she was talking about the hand-done smocking, too, so you're not the only one. I always called the elastic stuff "elasticized", as in "it's got an elasticized back so it'll stretch."

The zig-zagging over narrow elastic will work. You can also sew casings on the wrong side and string the elastic through. Pin a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through your casing, sew down the elastic on both ends and you're good to go. This method allows you to use wider elastic and you also don't have to worry about stretching the elastic as you zig-zag it down.


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## BeaBea (May 10, 2007)

Renaissance Woman said:


> The zig-zagging over narrow elastic will work. You can also sew casings on the wrong side and string the elastic through. Pin a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through your casing, sew down the elastic on both ends and you're good to go. This method allows you to use wider elastic and you also don't have to worry about stretching the elastic as you zig-zag it down.



Thats a great idea! I was thinking about Janelles idea too but I think she's cleverer than me. I suspect I'd sew a wide zig-zag stich across the fabric and then thread up a darning needle with the elastic and thread it through the channel. I'd be certain to catch the elastic if I did it her way... (I'm out of practise, too much time in front of a computer and working with professional seamstresses is diminishing my already meagre skills!)

Megan, dont forget to show us what you create 

Tracey xx


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## lypeaches (May 10, 2007)

Hey Beabea,

OK, you made me laugh...because I haven't actually sewn much myself in years...I too am spoiled by working with professional seamstresses. Well, not really spoiled since I have to pay them  . Nevertheless, many years ago, I did try this, and it really wasn't that difficult.


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## lypeaches (May 10, 2007)

OK, RW's answer gave me an idea. Instead of doing casings on the wrong side of the fabric, what about using ribbon on the right side, then tunnelling the elastic? You could use varying widths and colors, even. 

Just a thought...given the right fabric/style, it could be really cute!


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## Renaissance Woman (May 10, 2007)

lypeaches said:


> OK, RW's answer gave me an idea. Instead of doing casings on the wrong side of the fabric, what about using ribbon on the right side, then tunnelling the elastic? You could use varying widths and colors, even.
> 
> Just a thought...given the right fabric/style, it could be really cute!


I love it! Besides ribbon, you could use lace or a flat trim. So many options!


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